Rockfoxes.com logo
Home
Intro to Climbing
Techniques
Mind Games
My Bio
Design Document

My Bio


My Start What Was Hard? What Helped? Bragging Rights Contact Me

How I got started...

Brenda on a 5.11a/b I stumbled across my very first climbing wall during the first nationwide Warp Tour. Standing beneath the burning summer sun, I observed various and sundry dread-locked, sweaty bodies attempt to climb to the top of a 20-foot high wall. Each participant donned a strange belt-like apparatus, secured himself to a rope, then proceeded to scale the steeply inclined surface by grabbing brightly colored plastic holds that jutted from walls. While I was observing one particulary determined youth, a California-blonde-type guy wandered over and asked me if I thought I could climb it. Not in the mood for attentions from the opposite sex, I curtly answered that of course I could climb it, that it didn't look too hard, but that the line was too long. Famous last words.

You CAN find a rest on a 5.11a/b! The guy turned out to be the owner of the rock wall! He walked me to the front of the line, put a harness on me, and motioned me to go. That taught me a lesson about boasting. But I did pretty well for someone who had never climbed before, and I was hooked. And of course, I ended up with an excellent instructor, although he was, indeed, from California. ;-)

What was hard for me...

Bouldering is INTENSE! My first fear was that I was too short to climb. I am 5 feet tall and often found that holds were out of reach for me. However, my inability to reach holds was really due to my lack of climbing technique, i.e. using my feet properly and learning how to position my body to maximize my reach. And while we are on the subject of feet, I didn't pay any attention to my feet at all, relying instead on my arms. Before I learned to use my feet, I would tire easily since pulling 100lbs up a wall is tough!

However, my greatest obstacle was my fear. All of our lives we are told NOT to climb high, since we may fall and get hurt. Despite the fact that I was SUSPENDED FROM A ROPE and in absolutely NO DANGER of falling, I was still too afraid to try many moves on harder climbs.

What helped me climb better?

Traversing Learning to use my own physical assets, combined with good technique, allowed me to race through intermediate level climbing into low expert. What do I mean by good technique? Well, holds are better if you grab then one way than another. Footwork can make a climb go much smoother, and if you learn to rest (yes, rest! on a climb, you can give your aching arms and fingers a critical rejuvination so that you can make it to the top. I'm pretty flexible, so I compensate for my lack of height by stepping up very high with my feet to get me closer to a hold.

Doing a lay-back However, the most critical factor in climbing well was overcoming my FEAR. Fear sapped my confidence and caused me to give up rather than try a hard move. Fear also set my arms and legs shaking, ruining my composure and making delicate moves oft times impossible. Fear convinced me that I couldn't do it, whatever "it" was. So I failed, even when I was perfectly capable of climbing a particular route. Once I conquered my fear, my performance shot up the scale. Keep in mind, though, that I am not a fearless wonder. I have to train at least several times a year, because that ol' fear just doesn't want to get lost. But it's worth the effort :-)

Just how hard DO I climb? (or, Bragging Rights)

Still climbing that 5.11 I am not the hardest climber in the world. Nor the weakest. I figure I am somewhere in the range of "above average." I have climbed more often indoors than outdoors, but I'll list my accomplishments for both catagories. If you don't understand the following list, make sure you go to the Intro page and read up on route ratings.

  • Hardest Indoor Flash on Toprope: 5.10c/d
  • Hardest Indoor redpoint on Toprop: 5.11d
  • Hardest Indoor Flash on Lead: NONE. I always toprope first.
  • Hardest Indoor redpoint on Lead: 5.10a/b
  • Hardest Outdoor Flash on Toprope:5.10a/b
  • Hardest Outdoor redpoint on Toprope: 5.11c
  • Hardest Outdoor Flash on Lead: 5.10c
  • Hardest Outdoor redpoint on Lead: 5.10c

Due to time constraints, I am a gym-rat most of the year. However, in the gym I consistently flash anything hard 5.10b/c and below, and often flash 5.11a/b. If I have to work a 5.11, I usually have it conquered by the 3rd or 4th try. When I'm in shape, that is...ah, the detriments of being a full-time student: very little climbing time except during the summer and winter break!

Vital Stats and Contact Info

  • Name: Brenda
  • Age: 32
  • Height: 5', zero inches
  • Years climbing: 3 (had a few years where I climbed intermittently, but have been climbing fairly regularly for the past 3 years)
  • email: rockfaux at mirrorscape dot com (sorry, but I HATE spam from crawlers!)

Home Intro Techniques MindGames My Bio DesignDoc